Tuesday 30 September 2008

Nice on crutches

The title of Sunday's post says it all! Having been prepared a la nicoise, we decided (that's we spelt with a capital C!) I was up to some extended, assisted hobbling.

This was after Carol had ventured, unaccompanied, to the marche - she's really starting to love the freshness and the availability and the buzz! In fact, it's one of the major factors in us both feeling that Nice may just be our perfect holiday destination! It has the climate, mostly; it has the sea; it has good transport links to interesting places; it has shops and restaurants; our accomodation is well-nigh perfect and there is the market! Voila!

Anyway, Carol came back with loads of goodies, including ravioli, gnocchi, chicken legs and, of more immediate benefit, croissants! So, coffee and croissants it was. However, the time had come to put my french dressing to the test ( do you like the culinary pun?!).

So we caught the number 22 bus t
o Magnan, just the other side of the jardin you may recall, with the intention of walking as far along the Promenade des Anglais as I could manage and then getting one of "the many buses that go that way".

Well, the weather was great - warm and sunny - and there were lots of people promenading, although still plenty of seats available to rest at - ideal really. My average stretch between sit downs was about 200 metres so it took a while! We stopped at one point for an ice cre
am - I felt a really good boy!

Eventually, we gave in and got a bus - one bl**dy stop! - we'd walked a helluva long way with quite a lot of stops. Who says I don't have perseverance? Obviously, this level of effort was worthy of a beer but we weren't inclined to go into the old town on this occasion (little known fact - there are no public transport links into the old town of Nice, you have to walk/hobble).

We found a little bar with seats on the pavement (why can't this be more common in England??) near Place Massena and proceeded to spend not much short of 2 hours people watching, chatting and sipping beer - the things I put up with on holiday! In fact, Carol declared that this was a far better spot than our usual bar despite the higher prices. I have to say that there were far more noteworthy sights from here.

We then caught the bus home (which is what it feels like now) where I proceeded to make a concoction using t
he chicken legs Carol had bought earlier at the market. Shallots and garlic softened in butter, legs jointed then browned, celery, carrots and leek softened, red wine reduced down, 15 year old stock cube added, chicken returned then simmered for 90 minutes. May be appalling grammar but it was delicious!! Even managed to make mashed potato without a masher and without lumps! I won't mention how much butter was used in making this meal in case my doctor gets to read this!

All this was washed down with a bottle of Cotes de Ventoux - another link to a previous holiday in Provence. Very good way to finish a day!

Sunday 28 September 2008

French medical services 101

Saturday was the day we admitted defeat. David's sprained (broken?) ankle wasn't going to suddenly get better. We would have to resort to asking for help!

The point had been reinfor
ced in Carol's mind by the reaction to her slightly catching David's foot during the night - he eventually came down from the ceiling!! This was sufficient to keep Carol awake the rest of the night thinking about how to handle a visit to the hospital. So when I awoke, I had no chance - I was going to the hospital. Argument? What argument?

Having gradually got to the point where I could hobble a bit, we set off for the front door - a fair trek in my condition. When we got there, I was just taking a breather before contemplating the long haul down to the main road (I probably haven't mentioned before that montee Desambrois, our road, is private and has a barrier at the bottom - to which we did not know the code!), when a neighbour (voisin) called out from his window words to the effect of
"Wait, I'll take you". You could have knocked me sideways (quite easily, actually, at present) - the kind of behaviour you would hope for but, sadly nowadays, would not really expect - and all this in French!!

George (for that was his name) got us to Hopital Saint Roche within minutes and we somewhat gingerly entered the reception for "Urgences". Ho
w efficient they all were! First we registered then were sent Guichet 3 for admission. Then, inevitably, on to Guichet 2 for payment - actually, just setting up our bill for later payment.

One point to remember in all this - 100% French being spoken - thank God for Carol as, I'm afraid, my mind was elsewhere.

We then had to wait for all of 5 minutes before being taken through to the Trauma department (I think that's what the sign said!) Again, after only a few minutes, we were taken into a treatment room to be interviewed by a young lady doctor (who seemed a little nervous but that could have been because of the language) who asked loads of questions about when and how it happened (so Carol tells me!). She obviously felt it warranted an X-ray because I was put into a wheelchair and rolled straight round, where, without further ado, my ankle was scanned.

If you're waiting for the delay, wait on - there weren't any! Next I was wheeled into another treatment where a doctor (or nurse?) took pity on me and spoke English, explaining that I would need crutches and should return in 4 days for further tests. I was then taken through to be strapped up - not one continuous strip but many individual strips - it's gonna hurt when they rip those of
f!!

Then it was off to the window to be discharged from Trauma where I was handed my X-rays (apparently they are my responsibility - may make an interesting light feature in the lounge!) and my prescription - some painkillers and, interestingly, a pair of "cannes anglais" - crutches. That's how it's done here!

Then it was back to Guichet 2 for final settling of the bill - I flashed my European Health Insurance Card but that led nowhere - apparently I claim back when I get home. The total bill was €52.50 - seemed cheap if yet another medical expense incurred on this relaxing holiday!!

This time it was Olivier, our landlord, who collected us ("it's all part of t
he package" is a favourite saying of his!) and took us home via the pharmacie - €28 including crutches - and they're mine to keep!

After all that excitement, I needed a lie down - so I did! However, we then felt emboldened to try visiting vieille ville - for that classic french combination, beer and curry! Caught the bus into town, walked (if you can call it that!) to AKAThor where it was suggested (i.e. I was ordered to obey) that 2 beers would be enough. After that, straight to Indian Lounge, a place we'd been to last year. What was really good was that most, if not all, of the other diners were french! We had a good dinner with an OK bottle of house red then walked to the tram stop. By now, our bus was no longer running so we caught the tram to the gare then got a taxi to montee Desambrois - a complete rip off at €10 but.....

Then to bed - it felt very well deserved by now!

Saturday 27 September 2008

Stay at home day

Having heard all about "the spot", prepare yourself for "the ankle"!!

Friday was forecast to be less than perfect in the afternoon and my ankle was really sore so decided to make today a "jour a la maison" for rest and, hopefully, some recuperation. This largely involved me lying on the sofa reading and, occasionally, sleeping. Not exactly what we had planned when thinking what to do in Nice!!

Carol went shopping in the morning for essential g
roceries - bread, vegetables, irresistable sweet pastries - and we enjoyed a very good lunch of bread, pate, cheese and tuile biscuits. What more could a sick man want?

With no movement looking likely from the ankle, we agreed that Carol should try and do something - in the end, she decided to go to the cinema. She saw a film called "Faubourg 36" which, as far as I can tell, was set in 1936, the period when the Front Populaire came to power in France. Apparently not a nice group of
people. However, Carol definitely enjoyed the experience - I have to applaud her confidence in being prepared to challenge her language skills in such a way - she reckons she got most of what the film is about although the setting was a little uncertain in her mind. Incidentally, this was a film by the same guy who did another film called "The Choir" or "The Choristers" a few years ago. We'd intended seeing that but never got around to it.

Upon her return, she decided to try and get some medication from the pharmacie f
or me - returning with a couple of different bandages and some analgesic cream. Used the cream with some success, albeit temporary, but were uncertain about how to wrap in a bandage so didn't use them in the end.

I was able to stand sufficiently to
make us Spaghettini Carbonara (I made up the word spaghettini -it was very thin spaghetti that cooked in no time but not capellini dei angeli - angel's hair pasta). Went down very well with a bottle of Touraine sauvignon. We then watched a programme about a, presumably, famous lawyer - Henri Leconte - who seemed to have been involved in most of the high profile cases of the last 50 years. More is making sense the more we watch.

Then t
o bed.

Friday 26 September 2008

An attempt to have a holiday

Thursday was forecast to be a good day, at least in the afternoon. So, despite the (my) various ailments, we decided a bus trip to Menton, near the Italian border, was a good thing to do.

We caught the local bus to close to the Gare Routiere - had to walk/limp about 300 metres - where we looked for the appropriate
bus bay for buses heading to Menton. Should have guessed - it was the one with hundreds already waiting!
However, immediately behind it, and with few if any waiting, was the bay for buses to Grasse, the perfume capital of the world. So, demonstrating incredible agility of mind (and not wanting to wait for the next Menton bus!), we changed plan and got on the bus to Grasse. Similar journey time estimated - about 90 minutes - so no b
ig deal. I should add that I only paid €2.60 for both of us - and
it should have been €2! They're robbing b*ggers here as well!

As an ex-professional bus driver, I take my hat off to these idiots! I would think twice about taking a car down some of the roads they have to use - and, as for the speed at which they travel, don't go there. Occasional closing of eyes and breathing in was the order of things. However, he got us there in one piece and more or less on time.

Naturally, the bus station (gare routiere, see above) was at the top of the hill with all the points of interest down the hill - this just seems to be the natural turn of things as far as we are concerned - it was goi
ng to be interesting to see how "the ankle" coped. Well, it got me as far as lunch! A classic French setting - in a town square, under plane trees with the sun shining - the kind of caricature I'm happy to live with.

We d
ecided that salads were what was required - Carol had a Salade Nicoise whilst I had Salade des Foies de Volaille (chicken liver salad). Brilliant! I had to help Carol finish hers although I wasn't allowed any tuna! Beats MacDonalds any day!

After lunch, we mooched down to the cathedral, which was right by an outlook point as well. The cathedral was very dark with huge pillars (we reckoned
they hadn't had the necessary architectural skills to make them any slimmer). However, there were some lovely artworks inside including, astonishingly, 3 paintings by Rubens - just hanging on the walls. Classy!

We then outlooked from the outlook - you can actually see yachts on the mediterranean fr
om this far up - then decided we'd gone as far as sensible. So back, up the hill, to the bus. Joining the queue for the bus (those of you who have travelled in France will recognise the falsehood in that statement!), we reached Nice at about 5 o'clock.

Before being allowed to partake of a small glass of beer during happy hour, I was told we must find something for dinner. We c
ouldn't remember where there was a butcher although Carol vaguely remembered seeing one somewhere near the entrance to the old town. We looked...........and there were about 6 or 7 butchers! We chose one on the simple merit of it selling meat (???) and bought 2 cotes de veau (veal chops). Some bread, a few french beans - now we were set for happy hour!

Came back to the apartment on the bus (these bus passes are a thing of wonder) and started to cook -
pan fried with shallots, white wine and cream. Magnifique!

There, we're up to date!!

Still catching up!

Still trying to catch up and get up-to-date but too much else to do! Quel dilemma!!

So, Wednesday is t
he next day due to be reported on. Not one of our best so far but still some new experiences. (I can hear that "Life of Brian" whistling song in the background!)

Having read of
my travails with "the spot", you will be desolated to hear that I woke on this day with the spot intact and, in fact, growing worse but also a sprained ankle!! I have no idea how it happened but I can assure you it had happened. So, the word of the day is immobile. (the whistling sound was getting quieter).

We decided the time had come to try out the pharmacie for advice - something the French system is meant to handle very well. So, off we hobbled (I use we in the royal sense) to the pharmacie just round the corner. As soon as the word "pustule" was mentioned, the word "Medecin" was used - go and see a doctor. There was one just a bit down the road but he was on house visits until 2.15 so it was back to the apartment to wait - to wait for Carol to get back with bread and stuff.

At the appointed hour, but without an appointment, we went to the doctor's. His sign said he'd be there from 2.15 but it neglected to mention that this was French afternoon time! He arrived about 2.30!

After waiting our turn, in a very posh waiting room (salle d'attent
e) we saw Docteur Naraghi and he was great. Spoke better English than even Carol's French and quickly identified the problem. Prescribed antibiotic tablets and an antibiotic cream..........then asked for €32 as his consultation fee! That was fair enough but it was a shock to be charged €49 for the tablets at the pharmacie (plus €4 for the cream). Not sure how we'll be fixed for claiming any of this back but we've kept receipts and packaging and we'll have a go when we get home.

As you can imagine, the day was a bit of a washout - although we did come across one of the rare periods when the Petit Casino across the street was actually open! So we were able to stock up on beer!

I'll draw the curtain down on Wednesday now, I think. We've had better days - let's hope they're back again soon.

Thursday 25 September 2008

Sorry for the interruption to our normal service

Apologies to our loyal readers, but we hope to resume normal services from today!

Tuesday dawned a bit grey as usual but were we downhearted? No, we set off for the market having decided today was a day for fish - remember, we're not one of life's natural fish cookers (or eaters for that matter). We got all the usual veg and herbs then went to the poisson bit of the market. There may be only 5 or 6 stalls but the range on display is amazing - and they've all got french names! After a stroll up and down, we plumped for a daurade royale weighing some 750 grammes. At €24 per kilo, that represented about £15 worth of fish - no pressure!!

All this time, the sun was out and making us quite hot - at last! Given that, and given that we had 750g of fish in the rucksack, we decided to head back to the apartment and put stuf
f in the fridge rather than have the cats of Nice following us round. A short nap followed (a la David - managed to ignore the alarm for 30 minutes!) then it was time, once again, for la vieille ville. Caught bus 15 to Magnan - "just the other side of the jardin" said Carol - actually about 2 or 3 km west of the jardin!! The gentle stroll to Cours Saleya turned into quite an ordeal, at least for David, because the "slight spot" on my inner thigh got worse and it became increasingly painful for me to walk. The thought of a pint of Stella kept me going and we eventually arrived at our bar of choice AKAThor where all the staff seem to be young English kids who speak hardly any French - OK for us but you have to wonder what the locals make of it.

Just show that my mind was affected by all the pain, Carol decided she would like a Kriek (cherry flavoured beer from Belgium - tastes a lot better than it sounds) and I said "Yes" - 1 bottle cost the same as 2 pints of Stella!! And we did it twice!!!!

While we were sat there, we got chatting to a couple at the next table - they were from Leigh on the East Lancs road! First time in Nice and they'd been given a rubbish hotel so had swapped - "let Thompson sort it out!" - but were enjoying the sampling of different drinks - she had a margerita, bacardi and coke and a vodka tonic whilst we were there!! He was drinking Leffe - "Only £3 a pint here, it's £6 at home!". Pleasant enough couple but not hardened francophiles.

4 pints later, it was back to the apartment and "THE FISH"! (Perhaps not the ideal preparation, do I hear you think?). We used, for the first time, a fish kettle with lemon, herbs and white wine - after a couple of tries, we got the hang of it and ended up enjoying a fantastic piece of fish. Certainly try that again!

Then to bed at 10 with my spot.

Tuesday 23 September 2008

Il fait gris

Did really well yesterday,up by 8.30 and raring to go! But not into the torrential rain that awaited us. So decided to wait out the rain and, meanwhile, have breakfast - perfectly cooked poached egg on toast.

Then we waited, and waited, and.........well, you get the picture. Eventually, we got out of the apartment by about 11.30 (could have had our usual late arising anyway!)

Set out for Avenue Jean Medecin, one of the main shopping streets and also on the new
tram route (according to the local press, Nice Matin, it is scheduled to become totally pedestrianised soon - try doing that in the UK!). It also home to the Nice branch of FNAC, a french version of Virgin Megastores (who also have a branch on Jean Medecin). Confused? Suffice to say, we found nearly €80 worth of "stuff" to purchase - collected works of Marcel Pagnol (author of Jean de Florette); another book by some French person; a cd by Jacques Brel (joy!) and, la piece de resistance, a double dvd of Jacques Brel in concert!!! Carol is very happy - so happy she's going to let me do all the cooking!

Then off to the Ligne d'Azur office to buy our bus passes - unlimited travel on bus or tram throughout the Cote d'Azur region (Cannes in the west, Italy in the east and Grasse to the north) for 1 week for
€15 each. We do love a bargain!

Then walked a little along he Promenade des Anglais as far as the Quai Etats-Unis when it was time to look at aprons before having a beer. At €9.80 for a pint of Stella and a half of shandy (panache), I th
ink we'll stick to happy hour.

Then back to montee Desambrois, on the bus, for rest and dinner (ravioli and ratatouille (?)) before returning for happy hour. People watching and speculating what it would be like to live here took a while (but very enjoyably) then it was back to the apartment to watch a history of the French army in the original french (2 hours altogether!). We know how to enjoy ourselves!!

Then, at aout 10, the batteries ran flat (ours, not the telly) and it was off to sleep, with the alarm set for 8 as it's meant to be nice in the morning (and crap in the afternoon!)

P.S> the ratatouille did work with ravioli!

Sunday 21 September 2008

Il pleut!!

Tell me, what do you think of when you think of Nice? Sun, sea, sand, wine, style?

How about rain -lots of it!!

We awoke this morning (and several times in t
he night, it must be said) to torrential rain! You can just imagine my reaction - first day of 2 weeks in the south of France and it's pi**ing down!!!!.

However, our normal inability to get out before 11 a.m. came good - by then it had stopped. So off to the marche we went - the one we didn't know about until yesterday when our landlord told us about it - only a 10 minute walk away. Imagine the biggest farmers market you've ever been to - then multiply it by 10! It was fantastic (a word we're going
to overuse on this holiday). Suffice to say, we got everything we needed - lettuce, potatoes, tomatoes, onions, etc - all dug up this morning. Yummmmm!

We'd already b
ought some pate and a roasting joint at the landlord's favourite butcher - open on a Sunday - so were well set for both lunch and dinner.

We then returned to 9 montee Desambrois (our address) where we proceeded to feast on pate, bread, olives, tomatoes, olive oil, balsamic.............oh and millefeuille as well.......oh and a glass of wine!! How life should be!

We then remembered another long standing family tradition - we went for a kip!

About 5 pm., we set off to see some more of Nice. Quite dull and grey but warm enough. Ended up in Cours Saleya at the Thor bar (changed its name to AKAThor but nobody's fooled) - glad to see Happy Hour is still going strong - €3.50 for Stella and €3.90 for Strongbow (pints of both). Chilled out quite a bit.

While we were there, we met Timeo - his mum said he was 11 months but, whatever, he was great - took to us both well. We also g
ot some "vrai" restaurant recommendations from his mum and dad (who are French and live in Nice) - we'll be trying them out.

Then it was back to the apartment (in the bl**dy rain) to c
ook dinner. What an experience - only 2 pans and a pressure cooker and an unknown cooker. No pressure!

Well, here I am typing the blog so it can't have been that bad.

I think that's it for now - I'm off to learn how to use a laptop keyboard - c
ould save my marriage!

A demain

Nous arrivons!

Well, it seemed to take ages to come around, but 20th September 2008 finally appeared on the calendar.It was time to make for Gatwick and EZY5067 to Nice.

Catherine having managed to remember she was giving us a lift, we arrived in plenty of time, checked in straight away and went straight through security. All good stuff. In fact, it was only a short while later when Carol came to me looking very worried. She had just been to the loo so I was quite concerned - what had she found?

"It's not right" she said, "Everything's clean, people are smiling, there are no queues". I started to agree - this wasn't airport travel as we know it Jim.

Good old EasyJet, though, saved the day! The flight was 30 minutes late and there had been no information on why. Hence, I had a crick in my neck from continually turning round to see if they'd called for boarding yet. To be fair, though, we had a painless flight and were only 10 minutes late arriving in the beautiful south (isn't there a pop group there?) of France.

We were met outside the airport by our landlord - M Olivier Bonnet - who was just great. He spoke Franglais almost as well as us! All joking apart, he is lovely and was really concerned to ensure we have a great holiday. Rather took the wind out of his sails when we told him we'd spent 10 days in Nice last year - he couldn't give us the tour guide spiel!

However, we got to the apartment without further ado and whew! what an apartment. It's approached down a rather ding
y corridor but, once inside.......

We have a full kitchen including dishwasher, a through lounge/diner with 2 terraces outside, a bathroom, dressing room (fitted out in red cedar!) and a comfortable bedroom. All kitted out with an eclectic mix of, well, junk - very classy junk it must be said.

Having got our bearings, we set out to do our first provisioning trip using the recommended local shops. The boulangerie was great and, whilst there, Carol discovered appolines - horns of puff pastry conaining high calorie cream filling - fantastic! They're going to need to up production of these while we're in town!

The supermarche, ED, was cramped and busy - but had everything we needed this time. We just couldn't figure the system - we were queuing for nearly 30 minutes! We will study and learn!

After a very short sit down, we headed into la vieille ville of Nice for dinner - at le restaurant de Gesus. Pissaladiere to start for us both then daube for Carol and gnocchi for me. Great.

We got
chatting with a canadian couple at the next table - they'd come all this way without a guide book! Hmmm.

Anyway, more tomorrow - it's bed time.

Au revoir!